By Nancy Stapleton
This is the first article in a series of tourism stories about ways to enjoy the Shubenacadie Waterway, funded through the Shubenacadie Canal Commission’s Transitions project. Check back soon for more!
With life’s busyness, it can be difficult to squeeze in a little getaway, but one of the perks of living in Nova Scotia is that you don’t have to go far for an adventure. While just 114 kilometres separate the beginning of the Shubenacadie Waterway and where it spills into the Bay of Fundy, the towns and villages that line the beautiful lakes and river offer visitors many opportunities for incredible experiences. On a recent Saturday morning, my husband and I set out on an overnight journey along the waterway and were amazed by the natural beauty, eateries, tourism sites and more that we discovered along our way.
Fueling Up with Breakfast by the Locks
The Shubenacadie Waterway begins at Halifax Harbour and works its way through Dartmouth’s Sullivan’s Pond, Lake Banook, Lake Micmac and into Waverly’s Lake William and Lake Thomas. Before setting out, we stopped into the Good Day Kitchen & Café in Fall River to fuel up for our day. The café is a licensed, locally-owned eatery that, in addition to a full menu of specialty coffees and teas, serves a variety of foods from pastries and omelettes to soups and sandwiches. The café has a small indoor dining area overlooking Lake Thomas as well as an outdoor patio with views of the waterway as it narrows from the lake toward Lock 4. As we had planned to make a stop at Lock 4, we got our coffee and treats to go and headed back out on the road.
Accessibility notes: Parking for the Good Day Café is very limited so you may have to park at a nearby business and walk over. The café is on the second floor and is not accessible for people who use wheelchairs or those with mobility issues that make climbing stairs difficult.
A quick drive from the café took us to Lock 4 where we were transported to another world. It was so peaceful – sunny and breezy and the only sounds you could hear were the birds and water rushing through the lock and into Lake Fletcher. Lock 4 is a portage point for small watercrafts like canoes and kayaks and the water exit and re-entry points were well-marked. With benches, a floating dock and large rocks, there is no shortage of spots to quietly sit along the waterway and enjoy a morning coffee, read a book, or set up to paint a landscape. We could have sat there all morning taking it in, but we had a full day ahead of us.
Accessibility notes: From the road, the path into the lock is short and easily passable. While not wheelchair accessible, it may be possible for someone with some mobility issues to access with assistance.
Historic Lock 5
From Lock 4 we continued along Lake Fletcher up Highway 2 through Wellington, home of Wellington Bakery, well-known for its fresh-from-the oven brown bread, pies, cookies and more. It’s definitely worth a visit. We pulled off the road for a quick stop at Lock 5 Park. Lock 5 is, to date, the only fully restored lock on the Shubenacadie Canal and it has been recognized as a historic site by the province. The lock is surrounded by meadows of wildflowers, birds and the sound of water rushing through the narrows. The park has a large parking lot, a public boat launch, a dock and plenty of space for picnicking on the shore of Shubenacadie Grand Lake.
Although we’d been on the road for a couple of hours at this point, we were surprised that we’d only travelled 12 kilometres since stopping for coffee in Fall River. In this short distance, we had already seen and done so much. You often hear the adage about the journey being as important as the destination – travelling along Highway 2 as it hugs the waterway and driving through the communities along its route was as spectacular as any destination.
Local Food and Art in the Heart of the Village
We made our way to the village of Elmsdale and our stopping place for a late lunch. Leaving Highway 2 and travelling down Elmsdale’s ‘main street’, Horne Road, we arrived at Cup of Soul – a quaint café specializing in local food and organic, fair-trade coffee. There was such a down-to-earth, welcoming vibe to the café, and we immediately felt at home. Located in an older home, the café has several indoor dining areas as well as outdoor seating on its verandah and a large outdoor dining area with picnic tables and umbrellas. Our lunches were fresh and delicious, and the service was friendly. In addition to their café menu, Cup of Soul features handmade items and artwork by local artisans for sale.
Accessibility notes: Cup of Soul’s parking lot has several accessible spaces and there is a ramp from the parking lot to the café doorway. At the time of visiting (June 2022), the café employed COVID precautions and all staff wore masks.
So Much to See and Do Along the River
After our wonderful lunch we took Route 215 toward Maitland and were met with spectacular views – one minute we were awestruck by the beauty of the rust-coloured river and the next we would be taking in sights of huge fields of wildflowers and green meadows filled with pasturing cows and horses. Along this route, there were many places to stop and explore – river rafting tours, herb farms, and the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre in South Maitland. Despite living in Nova Scotia for three decades, we had never witnessed the famous tidal bore. We were greeted by an enthusiastic guide who walked us through the Centre’s exhibits and explained when and where we had the best chance of catching the phenomenon during our overnight stay in the area. We were invited to return the next morning to witness the tidal bore from the Centre’s observation deck high above the river.
Accessibility notes: Parking is plentiful and accessible at the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre. There is a ramp into the Centre and while the pathway to the observation deck is not paved, it would likely be passable with a wheelchair. The observation deck is level with the pathway.
An Idyllic Setting on the Fundy Shore
Not far from the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre, we checked into our overnight accommodations – Cresthaven by the Sea, a lovely seaside inn in Maitland that sits right at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy’s Cobequid Bay. The inn’s property was gorgeous, with centuries old chestnut trees, wild roses, and lupins. The owners were welcoming, and our room was spacious, clean and had all the amenities we needed. Within walking distance of the inn is Canada’s oldest general store, Frieze and Roy, which is also home to the Mud Slide Café. We strolled over, picked up some fish and chips and ate outside beside the river while watching eagles and hawks fish for their dinner.
Accessibility notes: Cresthaven by the Sea has an accessible ramp into the inn. On its main floor is the ‘Sailor’s Rest’ guest room which is accessible and features a walk-in shower. The washroom in the inn’s common area is also accessible.
We spent the evening watching the fiery sun set into the Bay of Fundy and fell asleep to the sound of water lapping at the shoreline. As we were getting ready to head back to the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre the next morning, we noticed a loud, low roar coming from the river. We ran to the window and unexpectedly witnessed the wave of the incoming tide as it met the Shubenacadie River. It was breath-taking.
Experiencing the Power of the Tidal Bore
We packed up, checked out, and raced back to the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre to catch the tidal bore as it passed. About a dozen others were gathered on the observation platform and the Centre’s interpreters explained what we were seeing as the water’s behaviour – and direction – changed right before our eyes. While the wave we experienced outside of Cresthaven by the Sea was more impressive in size and sound, it was great to have the tidal bore explained to us by the knowledgeable interpreters.
A Journey Through Mi’kmaq History
After watching the bore roll by for a second time, we headed back on the road to the final stop of our itinerary – the Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre. Located in Millbrook First Nation, the Centre features artifacts, exhibits and a multimedia presentation shown over six screens in a theatre. It was early in the day when we visited so the museum was quiet but there are times when it fills up with tour bus travellers. It was great to be there at a time when museum staff had time to speak with us about the exhibits. The multimedia presentation was profound and took us on a journey through the history of the Mi’kmaq People of Sipekne’katik, the importance of the Bay of Fundy, and the impact of European settlers on their landscape and way of life. The Centre also offers tours, traditional handicraft workshops, scavenger hunts, presentations and more. Its gift shop features Indigenous books, crafts, learning resources, clothing and toys.
With our visit to the Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre, we completed our trip itinerary and headed back out on the road, amazed that all these experiences could be had within an hour of downtown Halifax. What really struck us as we made our way home, was how much more the area offered. Rich with cultural history, natural beauty and welcoming communities, the opportunities for adventure along the Shubenacadie Waterway are abundant.